Our readers will remember that Alan and I had started Chasing the Perfect Curry in Ratnagiri, our very first stop on the Konkan Coast. And now, we were getting into a cab in Udupi, which would take us to the last stop on this incredible culinary journey. We were on our way to Kasargod, Kerala because this place had a unique connection to the Konkani language and culture.

We had travelled over 650 kilometres, up and down the Konkan Coast: by car, bus, train, rickshaw, even a boat. We had covered 3 states – Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka – and were now in the fourth, Kerala. We had met restaurant chefs and home cooks, cooking enthusiasts and masters of the craft, foodies and fun seekers. We had dined in big restaurants and tiny, hole-in-the-wall eateries. The food was always tasty, and never far from the beach, with the salty air of the Arabian Sea within a short whiff. We had the pleasure of devouring fiery fish curries and marvelous meat preparations, the taste lingering on our fingers and tongues well until the next delicious stop. We were also humbled by the hospitality we received from strangers along the entire coast.

And now here we were, a little sad, but mostly delighted, that we were on our way to the final destination of a journey that had started in my kitchen in Toronto.

To fortify ourselves for the long cab ride, we decided to make a short stop for a classic Udupi breakfast. Most cab drivers know which restaurants give the best bang for your buck. Ours didn’t disappoint us. He drove us to a Udupi joint along the Highway, where we feasted on melt-in-your-mouth uthappams, soft as clouds idlis and super spicy Mysore masala dosas, all washed down with steaming cups of the great southern comfort: filter coffee.

Truly, there is nothing quite as satisfying as a South Indian breakfast. Mostly gluten free and healthy, and perfect to jump-start your mornings.

I was vaguely aware that we were passing Mangalore – the heavy breakfast had made me drowsy. I knew I could doze for at least another 50 kms, before we arrived at our destination: Bela church in Kasargod.

Bela Church, also known as Our Lady of Sorrows Church, is a Roman Catholic church in Bela, Kasargod, with a unique heritage. It is in the Kasargod district of Kerala, but managed by the Mangalore diocese! Built in 1890, it is the oldest church in the district. This Roman Catholic church had recently celebrated its centenary and undergone a renovation. Its Gothic architecture gave it a distinct identity, and the faithful flocked here for services held in several languages but mainly, Konkani.

Bela Church is also replete with history. The parish priest we met was happy to narrate its checkered past. When the Portuguese finished proselytizing the people of Goa, their next move was to force the new converts to give up their indigenous culture, and adopt European ways. Thousands of Catholics migrated to Canara – namely Udupi, Dakshina Kannada and Kasargod districts to escape the harsh laws imposed upon them. Later, it was Tipu Sultan who terrorized them. To escape captivity, and constant harassment, a small group of these people took shelter in the Kasargod region and built a small thatched church at Kudrepady which was later moved to Bela in 1880. This church was blessed by the most Rev. Nicholas Maria Pagani, the first Bishop of Mangalore Diocese, on January 10, 1892. Since then, this church is attached to the Mangalore diocese. This is the oldest parish in the Kasargod district, serving the mainly Konkani speaking parishioners. This Parish has 17 wards and 448 families. Attached, is the St Mary’s High School and College.

The major attraction of this 125 year-old church is a 300 meter underground pathway leading to a chapel. Obviously, this was carved out of laterite stone to enable parishioners to worship secretly. Alan and I were given a grand tour of the crypt, where services are still held. While we were there, there was a service being held. Voices singing in perfect harmony and accompanied by guitars came wafting across to where we stood. School was out for the day, and hordes of delighted children were on their way home. I saw many girls with head scarves, happily chatting with boys – a contrast to what we had observed on the streets earlier. Women were in strict purdah, the influence of Wahabism very evident.

After waving goodbye to the parish priest, we headed to the other gem of Kasargod – Bekal Fort, situated approximately 28kms away.

Bekal Fort was built by Shivappa Nayaka of Keladi in 1650 AD, and is spread over 40 acres, making it the largest fort in Kerala. The Fort stands guard by the Arabian Sea, whose unending waves lap against the stones that have stood the test of time, to tell the story of a bygone era. Mani Ratnam chose this fort to film the unforgettable song Tu hi re (Uyire, Uyire in Tamil) in the movie of the 90’s – Bombay. The brilliant picturization of this song aptly captured the haunting beauty of this fort that offers a bird’s eye view of the Arabian sea, with pristine beaches on both sides. The vast green expanse all around creates the perfect contrast to the white beaches.

These sprawling forts make fascinating markers all along the great Konkan Coast. We had seen several of them, mostly built by the Marathas in every state. Each time we explored one, it took our breath away. Bekal fort was just as breath-taking, made extra special by the haunting imagery of Mani Ratnam’s iconic film.

Salty air does wonders for one’s appetite. By the time we finished walking the perimeter of the fort, we were ready for a late lunch. Our driver said he knew the perfect place for – you’ve guessed it – Biryani. Alan and I looked a little concerned when he took us to this dive, which didn’t appear very hygienic. The diners, all men, had eyes only for the plate in front of them. No prying eyes, thank goodness. The Biryani was brought to us steaming, brimming with the flavour of ghee and saffron, with a boiled Egg perched in a thick gravy. This was served with Raita and, of course, the famous Kerala Pappadums. In no time at all, Alan and I had wolfed down the tasty Biryani – crammed with succulent beef. Truth be told, we, too, hardly looked up from our plates. Check out the Beef Biryani recipe in our Recipe Section.

What a perfect ending to our quest of the perfect curry! Both Alan and I were fully satiated. For now, by the delectable biryani. Forever, by the entire journey spurred by the love for Konkan cuisine. Up and Down the Konkan Coast we went. Searching, looking, exploring, discovering, finding and enjoying a myriad of delicious curries. We thank you, our readers, for accompanying us on this unforgettable culinary journey. We hope you will walk in our footsteps, someday, soon. The Konkan Coast welcomes all seekers.

All good things come to an end. As we bid our blog goodbye, we take this opportunity to say thank you to you, our faithful followers, and to the many people and restaurant owners, who have contributed in making our experience worthwhile and memorable:

• Late Milton Marques – Alcove Resorts, Goa
• Mahesh Vaingankar
• Amantran Restaurant – Ratnagiri
• Shobha Patkar – Hotel Shoba, Malvan
• Paresh Tari and family – Malvan
• Hotel Kinara – Malvan
• Ritz Classic ­- Goa
• Mama Martins – Martins Corner, Goa
• Dominic – Dominic’s Pork Centre, Varca, Goa
• Shyamsunder Basroor – Swetha Lunch Home, Karwar
• Bernadine Roche (Furtado)
• Terry Furtado – Silver Sands, Thottam, Malpe Beach
• Kullugana – Restaurant & Toddy Bar, Thottam, Malpe Beach
• Leslie and Sharmila D’Souza
• Mitra Samaj – Udupi
• Vithal Pai – Diana Restaurant, Udupi
• Usha Hotel – Udupi
• Ranjit Padigar
• Cedric Noronha
• Pereira’s Restaurant – Mangalore

And last, but not the least, Seema and Zach – our supportive spouses for letting us indulge our taste buds, and our craving for adventure, as we chased the perfect curry, up and down the wonderful Konkan Coast!

For photographs go to the Photo Gallery tab above; likewise for recipes.

Things to do in Kasargod:

Forts:
• Bekal
• Chandragir
• Hosdurg

Beach:
• Bekal
• Kappil
• Azhithala
• Chembirika
• Hosdurg

Wildlife Santuaries:
• Ranipuram
• Kammadam Sacred Grove
• Parappa
• Malom
• Adoor

Church:
• Our Lady of Sorrows – Bela

Temples:
• Mallikarjuna
• Sri Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Lake Temple

Mosque:
• Malik Deenar Juma Masjid

Best time to visit: November – March

Know your Konkan Coast

The Konkan coast runs south from Mumbai all the way to Kasargod. Quaint fishing villages and magnificent forts look out into the endless blue of the Arabian sea. Pristine beaches and coconut palm trees dot the coast all along, until you reach Malvan, the last beach town of significance, before the sands dissolve into Goa. The cuisine along the Konkan coast is as varied as it is delicious, greatly influenced by its geographic location, and layered history of the region. They are all intertwined yet distinct. Some patterns are common – like the seasons which influenced bottling pickles, and drying of fish and pork etc. The monsoon brought a lot of seasonal foods like bamboo, snails (conge) etc to the table. Coconut is an integral part of the Konkan cuisine. Apart from local influences, Portuguese and Arab influences had major impacts.